Sparkling
Sparkling: the fizz of the new world. The price difference between champagne speaks as much to its quality as it does to the regulation. Anyone can make sparkling in Australia and any quality of grapes can be crushed for it. Saying that it is not surprising that regions suited to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay produces our most balanced, complex sparkling wines.
Champagne
What is not to like about champagne? So much regulation exists from the grape to the bottle. From the simple fact that it must come from the Champagne region in northeast France; to the governing body that gives an échelle des crus to the grapes of every grower. Those across the world have tried to imitate the combination of freshness, richness, delicacy and raciness but never seem to reach the high notes. Traditional champagne is made from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a dash of Pinot Meunier. For something different try the Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs which is one hundred percent Chardonnay.
Riesling
Before 2000 Riesling could indicate a grape variety (e.g. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Grenache) or a blended style (e.g. Claret, White Burgundy, Chablis). As a consequence consumers could not tell (except perhaps by looking at the price of course) the difference between a blend made in a Germanic style and a true expression of the German grape.
Sauvignon Blanc
Do people like Sauvignon Blanc? Or do they like wines from Marlborough? These questions, more than their answers, have seen experienced and amateur winemakers flood across the Wairau Valley in the hope of securing their fortune. Those cautious about the quality in the face of such hysteria should try the 2008 Ara Composite.
Semillon and Semillon Sauvignon Blanc
The forgotten classic white grape. People argue over the origins of Riesling, insist that good Chardonnay can only be produced in Burgundy, or get worked up over their like or dislike of Sauvignon Blanc, yet few order a bottle of Semillon and less call it one of their favourites. A wonderful match with food, next time try the 2008 Capercaillie.
Chardonnay
Tarnished forever by cardboard packaging, only now is this austere grape making a comeback. Good Chardonnay can take on whatever character the winemaker desires: from vivacious and sparkling, to rich and buttery. If you drink an over-oaked chardonnay don’t blame the grape, blame the winemaker. Don’t believe us? Try the 2008 Ocean Eight.
White Blends and Varieties
In the nineteenth-century white wines from the Rhone were revered across the world. Today white blends (unless they include the omniscient Sauvignon Blanc) are relics from a different age. The change no doubt is a consequence of a view that, these days, one does not spend much money on white wine. The Les Olivier is a fine example of what all that old world fuss was about.
The Europeans in Australia
Each year there seems to be a new grape variety that bursts on to the market. This summer everyone is talking about Gruner Veltliner. At Parlour we are having a little side bet on Fiano. It is an Italian grape that hails from Naples. This one from Fox Gordon is one of Australia’s first. We have a feeling it wont be the last.
Rosé
Rosé is made pink by brief contact with red, black, or purple grape skins. They can be made from almost any red variety, red blends or red and white blends. Saignée is a process where the winemaker bleeds some of the juice off the vat in order to impart more tannin and colour into the red wine. The juice that is removed is then fermented separately to make the rosé.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is the most translucent, the most ethereal and the most fragile of all wines. There is a saying in Burgundy for their prized grape: get the bouquet right, and the palate will take care of itself. Things have not been so simple in the new world. In California during the 1970s Pinot Noir grapes sold for less per tonne than Thompson’s Seedless. Thankfully things have improved dramatically. There are some majestic expressions of Pinot Noir in this country. 2006 Principia stands out for us.
Merlot
If the movie Sideways immortalised Pinot Noir as the grape of the anxious literary figure, it also turned a generation of would be wine drinkers off Merlot. Before that the grape had exploded in popularity. From 1988 to 2004 the production in Australia increased 100 fold. If Sideways blunted such growth, it was not without a welcome from the world of wine judges. Wine writers had continuously dismissed Merlot because of the ease with which it was grown (and bottled) and the constant failing of the winemakers to produce something recognisable of the variety itself. There are a few exceptions. The Star Lane Merlot is one of the best we’ve tasted.
Cabernet Sauvignon
The great grape of Bordeaux. And the wine of the Australian businessman. It is a cerebral wine. Tough, resistant, and enduring – Cabernet Sauvignon shows its true beauty with age. If there was a grape that put Australian winemaking on the international map it was Cabernet Sauvignon. If it is wine to match with business, order the Penley Reserve. Otherwise relax with a bottle of the Ken Helm.
Cabernet Blends
Along the banks of the Gironde in Bordeaux each of the estates grow a mixture of grape varieties. They usually consist of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and perhaps even a little Malbec. There is something romantic about master French winemakers adjusting their blend to make something truly sublime. In Australia and New Zealand the best blends follow the Bordeaux style of winemaking where there is a delicate balance between oak and fruit. The Te Mata Coleraine is a new world classic.
Shiraz
The darling grape of the Rhône has until very recently found itself the industrial workhorse of South Australia. If you purchased a cask of red in the 80s you could all but guarantee that it had some shiraz in it. Thankfully that is no longer the case. Here are two examples of quality Australian shiraz. For that classic Barossa weight and dark fruit try the 2007 John Duval Wines Entity. Or for the spice and complexity typical of cool-climate try 2008 Nick O’Leary.
Shiraz Blends
For some it is Burgundy, others it is Bordeaux, but for us at Parlour it is Châteauneuf du Pape. Just north of Avignon, the town is dominated by a ruined papal summer palace. The secret of the terrior is the galet, a rounded heat-absorbing stone found almost exclusively within its boundaries. Cannot afford such decadence? Try the 2007 Esprit. Spinifex proves that we can make wine with similar complexity, even if it might lack the dizzying majesty.
Dessert Wine
There is no simple classification for dessert wine. Perhaps the best is its timing within a meal. Unlike white fortified wines which are drunk before a meal, or red fortified wines which are taken afterwards, dessert wines are made to accompany food. Treat yourself with dessert and a bottle of the Chateau La Rame. You wont be disappointed.
Fortifieds
Fortified wines were created in the age of sail to stop wine spoiling on long sea voyages. They were the products of empire; symbols of a nation’s civilisation and enlightenment. With Britain dominating the world’s shipping lanes they became an instant hit with both officer and gentleman.